Crisp on the outside, still soft and airy on the inside, Gougères (goo jher) are still one of my favorite appetizers. Julia Child liked them too. |
My first recipe for Gougère Puffs was printed in a January 1975 Apartment Living magazine in a article titled One-Handed Nibble #1 (no author noted)--not sure if they ever printed a nibble #2 or #3. The cheese puff balanced atop the model's 1970s manicured thumb, seemed like the perfect new appetizer for future parties. And they were French--always an excellent choice in the mid-70's.
Julia Child's cooking show The French Chef was popular on PBS, and she had just published a second less formal cookbook called Julia Child's Kitchen. Her first two books, Mastering the Art of French Cooking Volume I and Volume II, intimidated me and were too expensive for my budget. Instead, I borrowed a copy from the local library. When Julia suggested on page 175 of Volume 1, that her recipe for pâte à choux was quick and easy; with 7 pages of detailed instructions, I decided to attempt what appeared to be the more user-friendly version.
Natural nails c1975 and a cheesy puff. |
Years later, after catering far too many cocktail parties, I learned to make a nice pâte à choux dough to create holiday croquembouche, sweet profiteroles, beignets, and churros. I moved on to more trendy appetizers: stuffed mushrooms, phyllo triangles filled with feta and spinach, a variety of mini quiche bites, and artful displays of seedless grapes rolled in Roquefort and chopped walnuts. So 80s, but so good. These past catering menus are a fun personal culinary journal, and like photos of my old hairstyles--they often make me chuckle. Seriously, who in their right mind stuffs a hundred snow peas?
Phyllo triangles were filled with spinach and feta cheese.... or if your budget allowed-lump crab meat or lobster! |
Dorie Greenspan was in Austin promoting her new book Around my French table. After attending her cooking class at Central Market, I signed up for the Twitter cook-along group--French Fridays with Dorie (#FFwD). A tiny bubble of energy, Dorie was full of stories about working with Julia Child and living and cooking in France--you just couldn't help but like her. The quirky hair cut, funky librarian glasses, glowing skin, signature neck scarf, and long apron, all made you wish you could some day keep it all that simple......and still look so modern and cool!
Dorie in her trademark glasses, apron, and scarf at Central Market in Austin. |
A tray of cheesy gougère puffs hot from the oven. |
My most recent preparation with added crispy fried pancetta, formed and ready for the freezer. |
These cheesy puffs are hard to resist hot out of the oven, even without a glass of wine. |
Recipe by Dorie Greenspan
Makes about 3 dozen
Follow these step-by-step directions.
Heat oven to 425°F. Adjust racks in oven into thirds.
Start adding room temperature eggs, one at a time, mixing well after each addition. Dough will break apart and look like this--don't panic! |
Keep beating dough and adding in eggs. |
Last egg in and the dough begins to come back together. |
Don't be afraid to beat the dough--the air you incorporate will create puffy pockets within the cooked gougère. |
The dough will become shiny, golden, and quite sticky after the last egg is added. |
Cook pancetta, if using, and drain on paper towel. |
Add the cheese, and pancetta, if using. |
A quick stir and dough is ready for baking or freezing. |
The dough is beautiful, even before it is baked. Use spring-loaded ice cream scoop sprayed with Pam, two spoons or a piping bag to make rounds. This tray is ready for the freezer. When frozen, they will be placed in an airtight container for future baking. |
To bake, turn pre-heated oven down to 375°F. Place puffs on a parchment or Silpat lined baking sheet, at least 2" apart. Bake for 12 minutes. Rotate the pans from front to back and top to bottom. Continue baking for another 12-15 minutes (add a few more minutes if frozen). Gougères are done when a deep golden all over, firm, and puffed. |
Wish you could smell these goodies! Watch carefully. You want them golden all over, not just on the tops, or they will deflate when you take them out. Serve warm. |
Dorie's recipe for gougères is in the first chapter of Around My French Table, titled nibbles and hors d'ouevres. You can also find the recipe and learn more about Dorie on her blog.
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